Laxey Wheel
A Big Wheel and a Hot Climb – Visiting the Laxey Wheel
While on the Isle of Man, I decided to take a break from the winding roads and do something touristy. That meant heading to the largest working waterwheel in the world: the Laxey Wheel—also known as Lady Isabella.
The ride there was short but scenic, winding through small, quiet villages. The last stretch, though, was a challenge: a steep, narrow road led up to the wheel. I was thankful nothing was coming the other way—there wasn’t much room for negotiation.
It was a hot day, and I was in full riding gear. I couldn’t wait to park the bike, shed the layers, and stash everything in the bags. Free at last, I walked up the path and bought a ticket.
The wheel is massive—72 feet in diameter and built into the hillside above the village of Laxey. It was originally constructed in 1854 to pump water from the nearby lead and zinc mine. Since there’s no coal on the island, it’s entirely water-powered.
Here's how it works: water from local springs and streams is channeled into a cistern above the wheel. Through a pipe, the water flows upward using an inverted siphon (yes, up!), then drops into buckets along the wheel’s edge, turning it in what’s called a backshot direction. The crank, with a 4-foot throw, powers a long rod that runs 200 meters to a T-rocker at the mine, converting it into a pumping action. All mechanical, all brilliant.
Standing there, hearing the creak and rhythm of something built over 170 years ago, I could imagine the clatter of miners and the clang of tools deep underground. It’s a beautiful and impressive piece of engineering—and a reminder of the island’s industrial past.
Afterward, I took a moment to catch my breath, sip some water, and enjoy the view over the valley. Nancy would’ve loved this place—both for its ingenuity and the sweeping scenery.
I still had my motorcycle boots on, which made it very difficult to navigate the twisting stairway.
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